Sabatini’s custom suits never become outdated because a suit should conform to your body, not you to the suit. Sabatini draws upon his knowledge of international cuts:
English-conservative, with square shoulders
American-roomy armholes, loose fit
European-fitted around the waist
Perfect Fit & Style
Sport coat, matching trousers, shirt and tie coordinated for your image.
International Styles & Cuts
The English style seems to be the most popular of all the schools of suit fashion, showing careful attention to detail. The jacket lies close to the body and is marked at the waist. The shoulders are soft, have little padding, and are not particularly large. The armholes are usually cut quite high. The English suit includes two side vents, even in dress suits. The double breasted jacket is more popular in England than in America where they prefer a two or three button single-breasted version, and the trousers usually have two pleats with the pockets placed along the seams.
The Italians prefer the shoulder to be quite high, padded and to sag just a bit. The jacket clings a bit more tightly to the body and has a rather narrow armhole. The jackets generally have pockets without flaps and are without vents in the back. In Italy, single or double vents are often limited to sports jackets. The Italian pants have diagonally cut pockets and a low waist, probably because the Italians do not favor wearing suspenders or vests with their close fitted suit jackets.
In America, the shoulder is more naturally soft, with an even slope and with little or no padding. Jackets almost always have three buttons, with only the center button fastened. The armholes are wider than the English version, thus providing more comfort and adaptability to different physiques. The pockets of the jacket have flaps, and the back has only one vent. The pants usually have no pleats and the fit down the leg is close.
The French school comes from the style begun in the 1960’s by Pierre Cardin, who designed a jacket with high shoulders and a visible little roll in the sleeve’s head. This jacket is flared and very long, popular in England in the first half of the 20th century. Cardin’s pants were bell-bottomed and without pleats.
The German suits have always been designed for comfort and durability. The shoulder of the jacket is low and natural. The chest is prominent, providing enough room on the inside for pockets to hold wallets, notebooks, pens, etc. The pants crotch and waist are low.
The Sabatini style is a mix between all the fashion schools. He suggests that men should concentrate on the executive single breasted, two-button style suit with a notched lapel and a medium fitted waist. The armhole should be 3/4” deeper than the English style, for comfort. Opt for a medium fit shoulder. The collar of the jacket should lie close to the neck and the lapel should fit the contours of the chest. Make sure the inside canvas is of medium weight; if the canvas is too heavy, your jacket will be stiff. On the other hand a too light canvas will not work in the heat and humidity of summer. Your jacket will have no body and will appear wrinkled and worn.
The proper executive style suit jacket will have no vents or maybe one, if you are tall and thin. The no-vent jacket is especially important for men who are a little heavy in the seat. These men should absolutely stay away from side vents. The jacket should contain two outside convertible flap pockets (This allows you the freedom to use the flaps or fold them inside the pocket) and enough inside pockets to hold your pocket computer, pens, cell phone, and change. The sleeves will have four buttons with open, working buttonholes.
Choose the finest quality fabric you can afford and your suit will last you 15 years or longer. 100% woven wool is best for year-round wear. Wool is a natural fiber and breathes so you can be comfortable, even in very warm weather. You won’t have to have a fine wool suit dry-cleaned very often if you hang it in the evening after wearing it. The wrinkles will fall out by morning and you can usually spot-clean wool with a little water.Continue Reading